I make this every October without fail, usually on a grey afternoon when I want the cabin to smell like a warm dream. It's even more hands-off than apple butter — the slow cooker does all the work while you go about your day — and the result is something so richly spiced and deeply flavoured that I find myself putting it on toast, stirring it into oatmeal, swirling it through yoghurt, and eating it by the spoonful directly from the jar. No shame.
What goes in
Two 15-ounce cans of pure pumpkin purée (or about three cups of homemade roasted pumpkin, which is even better). Three-quarters of a cup of brown sugar, packed. Two tablespoons of maple syrup. One and a half teaspoons of cinnamon. Half a teaspoon each of ground ginger and allspice. A quarter teaspoon of cloves. A pinch of nutmeg. A pinch of salt. The juice and zest of half an orange. Everything goes into the slow cooker, stirred together.
The cook
Cook on low with the lid slightly ajar — prop it open with a wooden spoon — for four to five hours, stirring every hour or so. The open lid lets moisture escape and concentrates the flavour. By the end it should be thick, dark, and deeply fragrant. Taste and adjust the spices or sweetness. Blend until smooth if you like, or leave it with a little texture. Ladle into jars. It keeps in the refrigerator for three weeks and freezes beautifully for up to three months.